Coimbra
A few observations first. In Obidos, two church bells rang one minute apart on the hour. Behind our hotel were two dogs in the same property, who stood together and sang loudly in accompaniment with the bells! Most entertaining.
It is apparently an insult to ask for salt or pepper with a meal, because the chef believes that the dish has been cooked to perfection!
Breakfast is usually ham and cheese with a bread roll, bread, croissant, or a sticky bun. Lunch is also usually a sandwich or baguette with ham and cheese. The menu for a baguette for lunch today was for cheese, ham, ham and cheese, ham cheese and lettuce, or smoked ham. I ordered the ham cheese and lettuce, which came with just ham and toasted!
It was a pretty drive from Obidos to here, although we were sad to leave. Gladys did an excellent job of helping us to follow a red road away from the freeway, but brought us to the back of a building under construction with no access through to our hotel. Eventually we were given a drawing by a truck driver which brought us safely to the hotel only 100m away but a 1k drive!
This is a "university" town, holding the oldest university in Portugal and one of the largest in Europe. It began in the 13th century and was moved here from Lisbon in 1537, and is located on the highest hill overlooking the town and the river. The clock tower at the highest point is nicknamed "a cabra" (the goat) because when it chimed to mark the end of studies, the first year undergrads would be humiliated by senior students until they leapt and jumped their way home like mountain goats! The University is the dominant component of the town, renowned world-wide, with a huge student population.
We then took the one-hour boat cruise up the Rio Mondego (river) which was very pleasant. This river is the only main river to flow entirely within Portugal.
Later, we took the town bus tour, which always gives a very good overview in English of the entire city via headphones.
We have covered a great distance on foot today, and are now a little weary.
Both red and white wines are light, but quite good and very cheap. eg a bottle is about AUD$6.00 in a restaurant, and $4.00 at the supermarket.
Today was a public holiday (bank holiday) all over Portugal, with most shops closed apart from the newsagency and the tourist office. We are thus using the hotel computer, which does not have a USB port so no photos today! More soon.

Taken from the top of the Wall, looking outside. Foreground is the cemetery, with the aqueduct dating from the 16th Century through the centre of the photograph. Aqueduct is 3 km and was used to bring water to the town in ancient times.

Our hotel is just beside the wall, and our room is the third window from the left in the photo. Fantastic location, service, restaurant, and friendly staff. Note the balcony outside the window/french doors which has outdoor table and chairs and flowering potplants. Very Portugese!

View over Obidos from the top of the Wall. Castle is in the background, part of which has now been converted to a high class hotel run by the Government. As you can see, the town is on a hill and overlooks the countryside in all directions. Obidos overlooked the sea until 15th century, but the bay gradually silted up and the town is now inland about 6 km.

Obidos
Dom Dinis´wife Dona Isabel fell in love with Obidos when she visited in 1222, so her husband gave the village to her as a wedding gift. The town has lost none of its charm. The rooms in our hotel are named after queens of previous generations.
There is a parapet on the city wall around which you can walk (carefully, because there is no handrail and a sheer drop on one side), giving great views of the surrounding countryside.
Both Spain and Portugal have many old castles converted to hotels, and run by the Government. They are called "pousadas" in Portugal and "Paradors" in Spain, and are quite expensive. We have not booked any for accommodation.
We have seen many donkeys on the farms and around the countryside, as well as in the villages.
Today is our last day in Obidos, which we decided to enjoy in the tranquility of the town. Drinking excellent coffee in a courtyard near the ancient church, and stooging around the little shops after lunch, was a great way to spend the day rather than rushing into Lisbon as we had originally planned. In any case, rain still seemed imminent.
Sadly we say adios to Obidos tomorrow, to drive to Coimbra (pronounced Queembra) through villages and towns and "red" roads ie not on the autobahn. The day will include a stop at Batalha where we hope to see Battle Abbey (where the guards are changed on the hour) and the tomb of the unknown soldier.

A view from the coast road we travelled today. Note how close to the ocean the hotels and other buildings have been constructed.

The Palace at Sintra. Note the two large chimneys which rise from the kitchen, which were so large and high apparently to minimise the risk of fire from the large cooking ovens.